I am enjoying a huge bowl of tasty and healthy mushroom rice porridge in a small room, in the shadow of a young gingko tree with my wife, her brother and his young family. I may be the only foreigner in this unlovely little country town, though nobody bats an eyelid and I am treated with normal courtesies. There was no room in any love motel for miles around last night - it’s a long holiday weekend and clearly lovers are busy, which is what brought us to this country outpost, famous for dinosaur traces and little else.
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