We reach the pass, park and set off for Goribong Peak, which we can see rising above us, swathed in thick green, with three rocky outcrops jutting out in relief. A gentle walk, mostly under cover through a green tunnel of Korean pines, magnolias, oaks and short bamboo, with unseen birds singing us along. Every now and then, small piles of stones tell of previous walkers and we make our own on a boulder facing Jirisan to hold our wishes.
This is bear country but we clearly aren’t worth a look and the biggest threat we face is a very busy striped squirrel searching for pine nuts and totori (acorns).
We emerge on top of Goribong in the warm autumn sun to glorious views of the valley down to Namwon on one side and to the brother peaks of Jirisan on the other. Under a glowing blue sky, the silence and fresh air are exhilarating and we have it all to ourselves and a wheeling hawk. It doesn’t get much better - what an antidote to Shanghai.
That evening we have delightful vegetarian food, a create-your-own bibimpap with an endless combination of local plants, crowned with the seductive taste of sesame oil. The restaurant is a traditional one storey house, with wooden pillars and roof beams, whitewashed walls and paper doors. Owned by an ancient, friendly halmoni, we are served by a young Filipina, a rare foreigner this deep in the country, whose sister teaches English in the town. You leave your shoes outside, and sit on the heated floor at low tables. I shift and squirm to find an elusive comfortable position, jealous of the local people's cross-legged poise.
The rice comes cooking in a stone pot so hot the bottom layer is roasted literally to a crisp and tastes deliciously crunchy and nutty. This is all washed down with a tasty, home made, slightly fizzy rice wine called tongdongju. One of the best meals in a very long time, we head to our room satisfied with a magnificent day.
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